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LEAVE A DETAILED MESSAGE WITH A CONTACT PHONE NUMBER.

MAKE SURE TO INCLUDE WHETHER YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A PET OR BREEDER,
and answer these following questions:
​How do you feel About declawing?
Do you plan to keep your kitten indoor or out?
Do you have other pets and children?
Have your other cats been spayed or neutered?
Please provide Some information about the home you will be providing for the kitten, and where you are from. If you are a breeder or looking for a breeding cat, please let me know a little about your breeding background.

faq's

​Q: What type of food do you feed?

A: Attention: I have recently switched my kittens from Iams, to 4Health All Life Stages dry food and 4health grain free variety canned foods (the ones in actual cans, not the ones in the plastic containers). I switched to accodedate one kitten that had a more sensitive stomach and I liked it enough to just stick with it. These foods are available from Tractor Supply stores, and can also be ordered online if you don't have one near you.  I consider this to be an affordable high quality food. Real Chicken is the #1 ingredient and it contains no artificial colors, flavors or preservatives and is free of corn, wheat, and soy. It also has probiotics that help balance the digestive system and help to build a healthy immune system. The dry food is not a grain free. It does contain rice and barely, which I consider to be healthier grains. The wet canned food is grain free. Don't fall victim to marketing at your pets expense! It's not necessary to buy high dollar boutique foods, and you will almost never find a vet that recommends them. 

​ Q: Is it okay if we want to switch foods?

A: It is okay if you decide to feed a different food. We do ask that you please discuss an appropriate brand with your vet, and do not allow marketing to be your deciding factor. I do recommend that you choose a food without artificial colors. When switching foods, please do so slowly, mixing the two foods together for a week, slowly adding less of the original food. If you simply switch without doing so gradually, it can lead to digestive imbalance and diarrhea or constipation. ​

Q: What kind of cat litter do you use?

​A: For our kittens, we use non clumping clay litter. All of our kittens use regular open litter pans so they can easily get in and out. Rather than scooping litter daily, we recommend that you use the minimum amount of litter in each box.  Just dump the entire box into a little trash bag every one to two days, and refill the box with fresh litter! You only need to put an inch in the bottom of the box because it will only be used for a short time! It's so much more sanitary for both you and the cat to just dump the box, rather than scooping. If you decide to use another kind of litter, you might have to switch it over gradually, as you would do if you were switching foods, but some cats might go right to any kind of litter. I recommend replacing regular plastic litter boxes once every 3 to 6 months, as plastic is absorbent and can harbor bacteria. For our adults, we do use, and highly recommend litter robots! The new open air design is so much better than their older models and also features upgrades such as a nightlight, and a fill sensor to keep the robot from rotating when the tray is ready to be changed. I find that most clumping scoopable litters work fine in the litter robot and there is no need to pay extra for expensive brands. 

Q: How Can I make sure my kitten will use the litter box in my home?

​A: We keep our young kittens in a large kitten enclosure until they are 6 weeks old for their safety, at which time they are moved to a playpen which is a little larger. At 8 to 9 weeks old I move them to a bedroom where they will have more room to run and play. Keeping them in a small area helps them learn to use a litter box. When you get your new kitten home, please continue to keep them in a small area for awhile. We recommend a bedroom where they will still get plenty of socialization. This will not only help them easily find their litter, food, and water, but will also help keep them from feeling overwhelmed in a new environment. Slowly open up your house to them. Remember that kittens are a lot like human toddlers when it comes to bathroom habits. If they get busy playing and no litter box is near, they may have an accident! Having multiple boxes throughout the house is highly recommended. Make sure you keep your boxes clean! You wouldn't want to use an unflushed toilet, and they don't want to either. Lastly, please keep in mind that cats sometimes can't distinguish between their litter box and other things that look similar to a litter box, like boxes, totes, an open dresser drawer, and even bathtubs. If these areas are left accessible to them, the cat may attempt to use them as a litter box, especially if their actual litter box is dirty or isn't nearby.

​Q: Do you use cages?

A: We consider ourselves a MINIMUM cage cattery. We only use cages when necessary, and only temporarily. For the most part, our cats are house pets. For their safety, we do use large enclosures for our kittens and moms that are located in areas of our home where they get lots of interaction. These enclosures have climbing perches and plenty of play room. Kittens do get supervised time out of the enclosure and plenty of socialization. At 6 weeks old the kittens are moved from the enclosure to a larger playpen, and at 8 weeks old they are moved to a bedroom where they have more room to run and play. There are times when we will need to quarantine a new cat or a sick cat and we might temporarily use a cage for that. Our males are very docile and we have been able to keep them peacefully together in one half of our house, but they are not allowed around the kittens. We have a tall wooden gate that the cats cannot climb that basically separates our home in half, and when we are not breeding, males stay on one side and females are on the other.  ​We also have a downstairs where we can separate cats as needed. Although I try not to judge the choices of other breeders, I do not agree with making cats live in cages long term, as I have seen the effects of this and they are not pleasant.

Q:Do you practice early spay and neuter (EsN)?

As new studies have become available supporting it, I am currently adopting a new Early Spay and Neuter (ESN) policy. Previously there were no vets in my area that were able to preform the procedure, but recently that has changed. Kittens can now be altered at around 14 weeks old, and go to their new homes at 15 to 16 weeks for boys, and 16 to 17 weeks for girls. Although some vets will preform this procedure earlier, we would not feel comfortable having ESN for any kitten under 3 and a half to 4 pounds. ESN has become a standard for ethical cat breeders to prevent the breeding of our cats by inexperienced people and to keep our babies out of the hands of backyard breeders. All pet kittens leaving the cattery will now be spayed or neutered before going to their new homes. The ages given above are approximate and some kittens may require a little additional time before they can be altered, if they are a little smaller or if they have a setback that prevents them from being altered on time. The only instance where I may still send a kitten home on a spay/neuter contract rather than altering it before leaving, is if a male kitten were to have one or both undescended testicles, and they have already reached the age for going to their new home. 
https://catvets.com/public/PDFs/PositionStatements/EarlySpay&Neuter.pdf
https://cfa.org/early-spay-neuter/
https://www.thesprucepets.com/early-spay-and-neuter-of-cats-552482
​https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/general-pet-care/spayneuter-your-pet

​Q: Why do kittens GO TO THEIR NEW HOMES  AT DIFFERENT AGES?

A: It's often hard for new owners to understand that pedigreed cats are delicate breeds. Sometimes a small issue might come up shortly after the kitten stops nursing, like a cold, an eye infection, or a case of diarrhea. The mothers milk provides them protection against such things while they nurse, but there is a window when they stop nursing and their own immune system is not fully mature yet, that these small setbacks can occur.  A kitten experiencing such a setback would require close monitoring and possibly medication or an additional vet trip. Sometimes there may be only one or two kittens in a litter exhibiting symptoms, and we will decide to hold the entire litter a bit longer for monitoring, or we may go ahead and treat the entire litter as a precaution. To top it all off, the stress of rehoming can also lower the immune system and exacerbate issues. I'm sure many new pet owners would be capable of handling an issue like this, but there are also many who would not.  We also now practice early spay and neuter, and boys will heal and be ready to leave a little faster than girls. If I feel the kitten is not ready, then please trust my judgment and do not pressure me to let the kitten leave. I myself have bought kittens in the past that really should not have been sent home yet, and it's not a pleasant experience for new owner or kitten! I know you are excited to have your new kitten home, but please be patient, and the experience of having a new kitten will be much more rewarding. 

​Q: Do you ship? How can I buy one of your kittens if I live far away?

A: I'm sorry but I do not ship under any circumstances. There are still ways to get a kitten that is states away. The obvious is driving. A long drive for the right kitten can be worth a road trip! We drive up to 2 hours from our location to meet kitten buyers for free, but we will drive an additional hour for a fee of $100.00. The next solution is for you to fly in and take the kitten back with you on the plane in cabin. We can usually meet you at our nearest major airport. We have had several buyers do this, but unfortunately I don't know the details for flying with a pet so please check with the airlines for more information. Another option I've had a couple of people use is having a courier collect the kitten and deliver it to you. Couriers are often people who work for the airlines or travel often for other jobs, who transport pets for a fee as their schedule allows. A lot of times couriers don't know what their schedule will be until very close to time for them to travel with the cat and their schedules can change. If you use a courier it is at your own risk, please be sure you have researched the courier thoroughly because I will not be held responsible for anything that happens to the kitten/cat in the couriers care during transport. ​

​Q: Why Did You switch from persians to ragdolls?

​A:  Although I love Persian and Exotic short hair cats, I have found their grooming needs are simply not for everyone. I have personally come to feel that some of the physical characteristics of Persians/Exotics that are required by their breed standard are actually unhealthy and cause then undue stress. I wanted to offer a breed of cat that was just as beautiful but also lower in maintenance. Ragdolls are so much easier to care for and I don't worry as much anymore about whether or not my kitten buyers will be able to handle their care in the long run. My personal experience is that Ragdolls almost never tear or have tear stains, rarely mat, and require much less maintenance to maintain their regal appearance. 

​Q: Do you have any advice for new breeders?

​A: This is a question that requires a book, not a paragraph to answer. There are so many important  things for a new breeder to consider. If you want to do it right, I would say your first step is to research by attending shows, and joining some online groups for breeders to observe. Give some thought to what you want to focus on. It's all about your preference but it's a decision you don't want to regret, so it's important to make a firm decision before you go spending money. From there, talk to several breeders that have the sort of cats you are looking for. Make comparisons. Find out what different breeders offer as far as warranties and support go, and what their contract requires of you. Get supplies before cats. You will need grooming tools, birthing/kitten enclosures and space to put them in your home, general meds and kitten birthing supplies, record keeping books, cleaning supplies, litter boxes, quality food, scratching posts, and preferably some back up money in case a cat is ever sick and needs vetted right away. Look for cats that come as close to the breed standard as possible, and ONLY pair that cat with other unrelated cats that also meet the breed standard. Don't try to go against the breed standard; Serious breeders respect the breed standard for their registry and their goal is to meet that standard.  Make sure all of your cats are disease tested for any illnesses that are common to your breed. Regardless of whether or not the breeder you buy from says that parents are negative, always do your own tests. Vet check each cat. Quarantine new cats. Set a limit for the maximum number of intact cats you will ever want in your cattery. It's very important not to get too many cats, it's easy to become overwhelmed and the cats will suffer. Having a small number of well cared for cats will produce better kittens than a large number of neglected cats.  Those are only a few pointers, and all breeders will tell you different things but in the end you must make up your own mind.

Q: What do you recommend for water dishes?

A: Unless you are showing, Ragdolls do not tend to need any special dishes to keep them clean, although ceramic or stainless steel dishes are always recommended for any breed, for sanitary purposes. Some Ragdolls may have longer fur than others, and if you notice that your current water dish choice is affecting on your cats appearance, you may want to choose a special dish or fountain for them. There are lots of choices for cat fountains, but look for one that will allow the cat access to an area of water that is not so deep or wide that it allows them to still soak themselves, and make sure or they are not made out of porous plastics. Porous materials like plastic can harbor virus's or bacteria despite your best attempts at cleaning. If a fountain is not for you, there are just a few people you can find online who make ceramic pumpless watering dishes designed for messy drinkers.  I currently only know of two such sellers, but there might be others.  Please copy and paste these links to our favorite water dish choices! Ebi Fountains and Charlies Critters. 
http://www.ebifountains.com/stock-fountains.html
​http://www.charliescritters.com/products.html
Here is another link I found, although it's not a site I can vouch for as I have never ordered from them and it looks foreign.
​ ​https://www.englishtaobao.net/product/555425914546/

Q: is a ragdoll right for me?

Ragdolls are beautiful, majestic cats, and have so much love and silly antics to offer a family, but they are not the right pet for everyone. Some families have rambunctious young children who might accidentally hurt a delicate kitten, some have high prey drive dogs that could pose a serious risk, others are so busy with work and other activities that they really don't have time to include a cat in their lives. Some people may even try to bring a cat into a rented home or apartment where cats are not allowed. It's also very important to do your research. I find myself saddened and surprised when I see or hear from people with a new cat, who were not prepared. Some individuals are caught off guard when their cat does something unpleasant like clawing furniture, playing rough, jumping on counters, or is shedding and getting fur in the house. There are some wonderful traits specific to Ragdolls that you will often read about when researching the breed, but please don't forget that ragdolls are still cats and the basic characteristics of a cat will still apply to Ragdolls. Like any cat, yes, they will do such things as claw furniture, climb, shed, and roughhouse. Please take all this into consideration and think  about how you will handle it BEFORE getting a cat!  It's not fair to the cat if it ends up being rehomed because the owner didn't prepare themselves, or they had a home situation that wasn't suitable for a cat. I suggest, if you've never owned a cat before to spend some time with friends who have indoor cats, ask them about the good and the bad and how they handle it, so you can get a real life examples. Please don't get a cat and expect it not to do things that cats do! These cats deserve to have a forever home, they are not novelties. Please, do your research and be certain! ​

Q: what do you use for flea prevention, how do you handle a flea infestation?

This information comes from experience. Many years ago I experienced a terrible flea infestation and I wasted a lot of money taking advice that did not work, and my entire family suffered while I waited to gain control. Please follow this advice and it will save you from having an infestation, or help fix the problem if you already have one. When getting advice about fleas you will almost always hear two things. One is to use Dawn Dish soap and the other is to use a spot on flea medication like Revolution or Advantage. First of all I will give you one huge, important piece of advice and then I will explain why. Absolutely, do NOT use Dawn Dish Soap as a flea treatment. Yes, Dawn will kill fleas on the cat during the bath. But once that bath is over, the fleas in your home will start jumping right back on the cat (it works the same way for dogs). The fleas live in your home, not on your pet. They jump on and off to feed. Dawn dish soap does NOTHING to break the life cycle of the fleas. And here's the issue when dealing with people giving you advice to do one or the other, the mistake MANY people will make is to do both. Dawn dish soap will cause your spot on flea treatment to be ineffective!  It doesn't matter if you put it on days after the bath, or days before. The Dawn strips the oils from the fur so well that the flea medicine won't be able to work with the cats oil glands and spread over the body the way it is supposed to. The flea medications all say on them that they are waterproof, but certain shampoos and soaps will still wash it off.  I use Revolution. Occasionally I will use Advantage Plus. The answer is to not wash with anything for a few days before or after treatment (I personally recommend 5 days). And if you really need to bathe the cat, try to wait for the 3rd week of the flea treatment cycle, when it's due to be reapplied in about a week. During an infestation, you might want to ask your vet if it's okay to reapply the spot on flea treatment in 2 to 3 weeks, rather than monthly, just until the situation is under control.  If you already have an infestation, you can also use Capstar pills along with the spot on treatment to help kill the fleas currently on your cat. Capstar is not a month long treatment, and it only kills the fleas on your pet at the time you give it, but you can use it safely with your spot on flea medicine and the Capstar can be given up to once a day. I recommend giving it one a day for 3 days and then once a week during an infestation. It can help you with the fleas in your home that keep jumping on your pet while you wait for the spot on flea medicine to break the life cycle. During this time you will still see fleas just because there are so many in your home. That doesn't mean it's not working, it just means that they haven't all died yet. Doing this, it shouldn't take more than two months to get the situation under control. once the situation is under control, you can just use your spot on treatment monthly, and just make sure you keep up with it in a timely manner. IF YOU HAVE INDOOR/OUTDOOR DOGS I highly recommend a monthly prescription flea PILL for the dogs (such as Nexgard), rather than a spot on medication. Dogs pick up so many fleas while outside that the spot on treatment is just not enough to kill them all before your dog brings them back inside, and they jump onto your floor, and then your cats. The flea pill is much more effective when it comes to dogs. Making sure your dogs are properly treated is extremely important because if not, they WILL give fleas to your cats, even if they are kept in separate areas of your home. Please note that not all brands are equal. I advise you to stay away from cheap store brands and flea collars. In my opinion the absolute best for cats is revolution, because it also worms and kills mites. Second to that I like Advantage plus. I do alternate between them to prevent resistance. If you find that fleas in your area are resistant to the available spot on treatments, you may need to discuss a monthly flea treatment pill for your cats with your vet.  

Q: does pkd and hcm testing GUARANTEE that kittens will be negative? 

We test all of our adult Ragdoll cats for PKD and HCM. Unfortunately, these DNA tests only test for the most common type of these illnesses, and other mutations may not be detected. Kitten buyers will be presented with proof that the parents of their kitten have been DNA tested negative, and they are certainly welcome to do their own testing through their vet. After the warranty is up, the only thing we are able to guarantee is that the parents are tested and are negative. However, we are always willing to work with our buyers and if anyone's purchased cat did become positive for one of the types of PKD or HCM that DNA testing was unable to detect, we would happily provide a discount on another kitten as long as we are still operating our cattery at that time. Please refer to our contract for details.

Q :WHY DO YOU ONLY OFFER TRADITIONAL COLORS?

I only breed traditional colors because the TICA and CFA breed standard for the Ragdoll says that Ragdolls are BLUE EYED POINTED CATS. Minks and solids, in some registries, cannot even be registered at all as they are not considered true Ragdolls. Although minks and solids can be registered in TICA through a loophole, they cannot be shown to earn titles or awards because they do not fit the breed standard for what a Ragdoll is, and many do not even have blue eyes. Support for solids and minks is very low and not many breeders are trying to get them accepted as a new trait or as a new breed. This can be compared to other breeds of cats and dogs, where certain colors are not permitted. The majority of breeders who are looking to improve their breed, would never go against the breed standard and therefor they will not have colors that go against the breed standard. The Ragdolls breed type is moderate, and should not come in every color, because without the blue eyes and color point body, the Ragdoll could easily pass for a normal domestic longhair household pet. It is a breeders purpose to strive for their breeds standard, to preserve their breeds standard, and to always strive for improvement. 

pkd and HCM dna testing

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