Frequently Asked Questions
Here you will find the answers to the majority of your questions. If you can't find the answer you are looking for, use the contact page or email me at [email protected]
Q: What type of food do you feed?
A: What We Feed Our Kittens:
Our kittens are raised on Iams dry food and Blue Buffalo Tastefuls (Morsels) wet food. Occasionally, due to supply shortages, we also feed Friskies Pâté-style wet food—and we’ve had excellent results with all of these options.
These foods are:
We keep dry food and fresh water available at all times, and wet food is offered once or twice daily. This combination helps support healthy hydration and balanced nutrition.
Our kittens are raised on Iams dry food and Blue Buffalo Tastefuls (Morsels) wet food. Occasionally, due to supply shortages, we also feed Friskies Pâté-style wet food—and we’ve had excellent results with all of these options.
These foods are:
- Easily accessible at most department stores, pet stores, or online
- Affordable yet high quality
- Made with real chicken
- Free from artificial colors and flavors
We keep dry food and fresh water available at all times, and wet food is offered once or twice daily. This combination helps support healthy hydration and balanced nutrition.
Q: Is it okay if we want to switch foods?
A:Transitioning Your Kitten’s Diet
It’s perfectly okay if you choose to feed a different food than what we use. However, we strongly recommend waiting at least 30 days before making any dietary changes. Rehoming is a significant transition, and sudden changes—especially to food or litter—can add unnecessary stress to your kitten’s system.
If you do decide to switch foods, please consult with your veterinarian to select an appropriate brand. Avoid choosing based on marketing alone, and try to select a food free of artificial colors or unnecessary additives.
When making the switch, always do so gradually. Begin by mixing the new food with the current one, increasing the amount of new food slowly over the course of at least a week. A rushed transition can lead to digestive upset, including diarrhea or constipation, which can be stressful for both you and your kitten.
A thoughtful, slow transition will help your kitten stay healthy and adjust more easily to their new home.
It’s perfectly okay if you choose to feed a different food than what we use. However, we strongly recommend waiting at least 30 days before making any dietary changes. Rehoming is a significant transition, and sudden changes—especially to food or litter—can add unnecessary stress to your kitten’s system.
If you do decide to switch foods, please consult with your veterinarian to select an appropriate brand. Avoid choosing based on marketing alone, and try to select a food free of artificial colors or unnecessary additives.
When making the switch, always do so gradually. Begin by mixing the new food with the current one, increasing the amount of new food slowly over the course of at least a week. A rushed transition can lead to digestive upset, including diarrhea or constipation, which can be stressful for both you and your kitten.
A thoughtful, slow transition will help your kitten stay healthy and adjust more easily to their new home.
Q: What kind of cat litter do you use?
A: Litter Recommendations
For our kittens, we use non-clumping wood pellet litter and standard open litter pans, which are easy for young kittens to access. Rather than scooping daily, we recommend a simpler and more sanitary method:
We highly recommend stainless steel litter boxes, as they are non-porous and do not absorb bacteria or viruses. Plastic boxes, on the other hand, can harbor harmful organisms over time, even with regular cleaning.
If you prefer to use plastic boxes, we suggest buying inexpensive ones in bulk from places like Dollar Tree or Walmart and replacing them weekly to prevent bacterial buildup.
Most kittens transition from wood pellets to clay litter without issue, but some may need a more gradual switch. If you plan to change litter types, do so slowly—just like you would when transitioning to a new food.
We do not recommend automatic litter boxes, such as the Litter Robot. While they seem convenient, they are often made from plastic and rubber, which are difficult to sanitize properly. In our experience, they are also prone to mechanical issues, and the noise and movement can be very stressful for young kittens.
Ultimately, a clean, simple, and consistent litter setup is best for both your kitten’s health and your peace of mind.
For our kittens, we use non-clumping wood pellet litter and standard open litter pans, which are easy for young kittens to access. Rather than scooping daily, we recommend a simpler and more sanitary method:
- Use just 1–2 inches of litter in the bottom of the pan
- Dump the entire box into a small trash bag every 1–2 days
- Refill with fresh litter
We highly recommend stainless steel litter boxes, as they are non-porous and do not absorb bacteria or viruses. Plastic boxes, on the other hand, can harbor harmful organisms over time, even with regular cleaning.
If you prefer to use plastic boxes, we suggest buying inexpensive ones in bulk from places like Dollar Tree or Walmart and replacing them weekly to prevent bacterial buildup.
Most kittens transition from wood pellets to clay litter without issue, but some may need a more gradual switch. If you plan to change litter types, do so slowly—just like you would when transitioning to a new food.
We do not recommend automatic litter boxes, such as the Litter Robot. While they seem convenient, they are often made from plastic and rubber, which are difficult to sanitize properly. In our experience, they are also prone to mechanical issues, and the noise and movement can be very stressful for young kittens.
Ultimately, a clean, simple, and consistent litter setup is best for both your kitten’s health and your peace of mind.
Q: How Can I make sure my kitten will use the litter box in my home?
A: We keep our young kittens in a spacious enclosure until they are about 6 weeks old for their safety and comfort. At that age, they are moved to a larger playpen or indoor catio, and by 8 to 10 weeks old, they graduate to a bedroom where they have even more space to run, play, and explore.
This gradual increase in space helps kittens develop confidence, learn their surroundings, and most importantly--master litter box training.
When you bring your kitten home, we strongly recommend keeping them in a small, kitten-safe space—ideally a bedroom—during the initial transition period. This helps your kitten adjust without feeling overwhelmed and ensures they can easily find their litter box, food, and water. As they settle in, you can slowly introduce them to the rest of your home.
Remember: kittens are a lot like toddlers when it comes to potty habits. If they’re busy playing and a litter box isn’t nearby, accidents can happen. That’s why we recommend multiple litter boxes throughout your home, especially in the areas your kitten will be spending the most time.
Also, keep in mind that cats may confuse similar-looking objects—like empty boxes, totes, laundry baskets, open drawers, or even bathtubs—for litter boxes, especially if their actual box is dirty or too far away. Always keep litter boxes clean, easily accessible, and placed in quiet, low-traffic areas.
If your kitten consistently has accidents in a specific spot, try placing a litter box in that area temporarily to encourage proper use.
A little preparation goes a long way in ensuring a smooth transition—and a happy, confident kitten!
This gradual increase in space helps kittens develop confidence, learn their surroundings, and most importantly--master litter box training.
When you bring your kitten home, we strongly recommend keeping them in a small, kitten-safe space—ideally a bedroom—during the initial transition period. This helps your kitten adjust without feeling overwhelmed and ensures they can easily find their litter box, food, and water. As they settle in, you can slowly introduce them to the rest of your home.
Remember: kittens are a lot like toddlers when it comes to potty habits. If they’re busy playing and a litter box isn’t nearby, accidents can happen. That’s why we recommend multiple litter boxes throughout your home, especially in the areas your kitten will be spending the most time.
Also, keep in mind that cats may confuse similar-looking objects—like empty boxes, totes, laundry baskets, open drawers, or even bathtubs—for litter boxes, especially if their actual box is dirty or too far away. Always keep litter boxes clean, easily accessible, and placed in quiet, low-traffic areas.
If your kitten consistently has accidents in a specific spot, try placing a litter box in that area temporarily to encourage proper use.
A little preparation goes a long way in ensuring a smooth transition—and a happy, confident kitten!
Q: Do you use cages?
A: Our Philosophy on Enclosures
We consider ourselves a minimum-enclosure cattery. When I began breeding over 10 years ago, I believed the use of cages in catteries was inhumane. Over time, I’ve learned that when used responsibly and temporarily, enclosures can be a valuable tool in ensuring the health and safety of both kittens and adult cats.
Our cats are, first and foremost, beloved house pets. Enclosures are only used when necessary—never long-term and always with the cats’ well-being in mind. For example, we use large, open enclosures for mothers and their very young kittens. These are located in central areas of our home where they receive plenty of interaction. The purpose is to encourage the mother to stay with her babies and to protect fragile kittens from being stepped on or injured by other pets. Experienced mothers are often allowed to come and go freely.
Occasionally, we may house a spraying or aggressive male in a large indoor walk-in catio, equipped with climbing perches and plenty of space to play. These males receive regular supervised time outside the enclosure, and they are typically neutered and retired within two years to minimize long-term confinement. Not all males spray or fight, but when they do, it’s critical to keep other cats and the home safe.
Kittens are gradually transitioned out of enclosures as they grow. At 6 weeks, they usually move to a larger playpen or catio. By 8 to 10 weeks, they are housed in a spacious bedroom where they can run and play freely until they’re ready for their forever homes. We may also use temporary enclosures for quarantine purposes, either for new arrivals or if a cat becomes ill, to prevent the spread of illness.
Our home is equipped with a tall, non-climbable gate that divides the house as needed, and we utilize downstairs spaces for separation when necessary. But the majority of the time, our cats are free-roaming members of the household.
While some breeders claim to never use enclosures, this can result in unintended harm: unsanitary conditions from spraying males, fighting injuries, kittens being stepped on or harmed, unplanned pregnancies, or outbreaks of illness due to a lack of proper quarantine.
As much as I’d love to say that enclosures are unnecessary, the truth is, they are essential for any ethical breeder who prioritizes the health and safety of their cats. When used correctly, enclosures help maintain a safe, clean, and structured environment—something both cats and humans benefit from.
We consider ourselves a minimum-enclosure cattery. When I began breeding over 10 years ago, I believed the use of cages in catteries was inhumane. Over time, I’ve learned that when used responsibly and temporarily, enclosures can be a valuable tool in ensuring the health and safety of both kittens and adult cats.
Our cats are, first and foremost, beloved house pets. Enclosures are only used when necessary—never long-term and always with the cats’ well-being in mind. For example, we use large, open enclosures for mothers and their very young kittens. These are located in central areas of our home where they receive plenty of interaction. The purpose is to encourage the mother to stay with her babies and to protect fragile kittens from being stepped on or injured by other pets. Experienced mothers are often allowed to come and go freely.
Occasionally, we may house a spraying or aggressive male in a large indoor walk-in catio, equipped with climbing perches and plenty of space to play. These males receive regular supervised time outside the enclosure, and they are typically neutered and retired within two years to minimize long-term confinement. Not all males spray or fight, but when they do, it’s critical to keep other cats and the home safe.
Kittens are gradually transitioned out of enclosures as they grow. At 6 weeks, they usually move to a larger playpen or catio. By 8 to 10 weeks, they are housed in a spacious bedroom where they can run and play freely until they’re ready for their forever homes. We may also use temporary enclosures for quarantine purposes, either for new arrivals or if a cat becomes ill, to prevent the spread of illness.
Our home is equipped with a tall, non-climbable gate that divides the house as needed, and we utilize downstairs spaces for separation when necessary. But the majority of the time, our cats are free-roaming members of the household.
While some breeders claim to never use enclosures, this can result in unintended harm: unsanitary conditions from spraying males, fighting injuries, kittens being stepped on or harmed, unplanned pregnancies, or outbreaks of illness due to a lack of proper quarantine.
As much as I’d love to say that enclosures are unnecessary, the truth is, they are essential for any ethical breeder who prioritizes the health and safety of their cats. When used correctly, enclosures help maintain a safe, clean, and structured environment—something both cats and humans benefit from.
Q: what is the best kind of litter box?
Why Stainless Steel Litter Boxes Are the Best Choice
When it comes to keeping your cat’s litter box clean and hygienic, stainless steel is by far the best option. Unlike plastic, which is porous and can absorb odors, bacteria, and even viruses over time, stainless steel is non-porous, easy to sanitize, and incredibly durable.
Yes—even those expensive automatic litter boxes made of plastic can harbor harmful germs. If you’re concerned about scooping, there’s a simple solution:
Use just 1–2 inches of litter in the box. Instead of scooping daily, simply dump the entire contents into a small trash bag and refill. It’s quick, sanitary, and helps prevent lingering odors or buildup.
Investing in a stainless steel litter box and using this low-litter method can make litter maintenance easier, safer, and cleaner—for both you and your cat.
When it comes to keeping your cat’s litter box clean and hygienic, stainless steel is by far the best option. Unlike plastic, which is porous and can absorb odors, bacteria, and even viruses over time, stainless steel is non-porous, easy to sanitize, and incredibly durable.
Yes—even those expensive automatic litter boxes made of plastic can harbor harmful germs. If you’re concerned about scooping, there’s a simple solution:
Use just 1–2 inches of litter in the box. Instead of scooping daily, simply dump the entire contents into a small trash bag and refill. It’s quick, sanitary, and helps prevent lingering odors or buildup.
Investing in a stainless steel litter box and using this low-litter method can make litter maintenance easier, safer, and cleaner—for both you and your cat.
Q: Why do kittens GO TO THEIR NEW HOMES AT DIFFERENT AGES?
A: Please Be Patient — Your Kitten’s Health Comes First
It’s important for new owners to understand that pedigreed kittens—like Ragdolls—can be more delicate than domestic cats. Occasionally, a minor issue may arise shortly after a kitten is weaned, such as a mild cold, watery eyes, or a brief bout of diarrhea. These aren’t unusual or cause for alarm.
While nursing, a kitten receives vital immune support from the mother’s milk. But after weaning, there’s a vulnerable period before their own immune system fully matures. During this time, they’re more susceptible to minor setbacks that may require extra monitoring, treatment, or even a precautionary visit to the vet.
If a kitten in a litter shows symptoms, we may decide to:
I’ve personally experienced receiving kittens who were sent home before they were ready—and it’s stressful for both the new owner and the kitten. I want to ensure that when your kitten comes home, it’s a smooth, joyful transition for everyone involved.
Your patience will be rewarded with a happy, healthy companion—thank you for trusting my judgment and experience.
It’s important for new owners to understand that pedigreed kittens—like Ragdolls—can be more delicate than domestic cats. Occasionally, a minor issue may arise shortly after a kitten is weaned, such as a mild cold, watery eyes, or a brief bout of diarrhea. These aren’t unusual or cause for alarm.
While nursing, a kitten receives vital immune support from the mother’s milk. But after weaning, there’s a vulnerable period before their own immune system fully matures. During this time, they’re more susceptible to minor setbacks that may require extra monitoring, treatment, or even a precautionary visit to the vet.
If a kitten in a litter shows symptoms, we may decide to:
- Hold the entire litter a bit longer to monitor for developing symptoms
- Begin preventative treatment for the whole litter
I’ve personally experienced receiving kittens who were sent home before they were ready—and it’s stressful for both the new owner and the kitten. I want to ensure that when your kitten comes home, it’s a smooth, joyful transition for everyone involved.
Your patience will be rewarded with a happy, healthy companion—thank you for trusting my judgment and experience.
Q: Do you ship? How can I buy one of your kittens if I live far away?
A: Although I do not ship kittens, there are still several ways for out-of-state buyers to bring home a kitten from Three Wishes:
🚗 Driving: Many families find that a road trip for the right kitten is well worth the effort! We’re happy to meet buyers within a 2-hour drive of our location at no charge. For distances beyond that, we offer an additional hour of travel for a $100 fee.
✈️ Flying In: Another great option is to fly in and take your kitten home with you in-cabin. We've had many buyers do this successfully. We can usually arrange to meet you at our nearest major airport for pickup.
Please note: I do not have specific airline policies regarding pet travel, so it’s important to check directly with your chosen airline for up-to-date requirements on in-cabin pet transport.
🧳 Using a Courier: Some buyers have chosen to hire a professional pet courier—someone who travels regularly and can hand-deliver the kitten to you. Couriers often work in or with the airline industry and transport animals as their schedules allow.
However, please understand:
🚗 Driving: Many families find that a road trip for the right kitten is well worth the effort! We’re happy to meet buyers within a 2-hour drive of our location at no charge. For distances beyond that, we offer an additional hour of travel for a $100 fee.
✈️ Flying In: Another great option is to fly in and take your kitten home with you in-cabin. We've had many buyers do this successfully. We can usually arrange to meet you at our nearest major airport for pickup.
Please note: I do not have specific airline policies regarding pet travel, so it’s important to check directly with your chosen airline for up-to-date requirements on in-cabin pet transport.
🧳 Using a Courier: Some buyers have chosen to hire a professional pet courier—someone who travels regularly and can hand-deliver the kitten to you. Couriers often work in or with the airline industry and transport animals as their schedules allow.
However, please understand:
- Courier schedules are often unpredictable and may change on short notice.
- If you choose to use a courier, it is entirely at your own risk.
- You are responsible for researching and verifying the credibility of the courier.
- I cannot and will not be held responsible for any issues, delays, or incidents that occur once the kitten is in the courier’s care.
Q: WHY DO YOU ONLY PROVIDE one BASIC VACCINATION?
Ragdolls Are Sensitive to Vaccines: What You Need to KnowLike many pet owners, I once believed that kittens needed a full series of three or more vaccinations in their early weeks. However, through experience, research, and years of breeding Ragdolls, I’ve come to a different conclusion - and it's one I stand by strongly for the health of this breed.
At Three Wishes, kittens receive one basic 3-way (FVRCP) vaccination between 10 to 12 weeks of age. Depending on how long the kitten stays with me and their age at the time of going home, they may also receive a rabies vaccination. No additional vaccinations are required or recommended for at least one full year.
Why Do Some Vets Recommend So Many Vaccines?It’s common to hear that kittens need three or even four rounds of vaccines, and unfortunately, many vets will ignore or dismiss the breeder’s vaccinations and recommend starting the series over again.
This standard approach is based on a "guessing game"—trying to catch the moment when maternal antibodies (from nursing) fade, and the kitten’s immune system can respond to a vaccine. However, if the vaccine is given too early, it may be ineffective, and repeated dosing follows in an attempt to “catch” the window.
By waiting until 10–12 weeks, after the kitten has stopped nursing and had time to develop independently, we significantly reduce the guesswork—and the need for multiple shots.
Why I Strongly Discourage Additional VaccinationsRagdolls are known to be vaccine-sensitive. Administering too many vaccines—or giving multiple shots too close together—can lead to serious adverse reactions, including:
It is for these reasons that I prohibit additional vaccinations outside of my recommended schedule. Administering additional vaccines before they are due will void your contract, and I cannot offer any refund, replacement, or health guarantee if the kitten becomes ill as a result.
What About FELV and FIV Vaccines?
I do not recommend FELV or FIV vaccines for Ragdolls—especially indoor-only cats. These vaccines are unnecessary in low-risk environments and carry a higher risk of reaction than benefit. However, if your cat is allowed outdoors or around another cat that has been, (not recommended) then you should administer the FELV/FIV vaccination.
You Have the Right to Say No.
While some veterinarians may strongly encourage more vaccinations—and even make you feel like a bad pet owner for declining--you are absolutely within your rights to make an informed decision for your pet. Many general practice vets have limited experience with Ragdolls and may not understand how sensitive they can be to over-vaccination.
Consider the Actual Risk. Before agreeing to any vaccination, ask yourself:
Final Thoughts:
Vaccines do not guarantee immunity, and they do carry risk—especially in a breed like the Ragdoll. I urge all kitten owners to carefully assess their cat’s lifestyle, exposure, and health status before agreeing to any vaccination protocol.
Always research and advocate for your cat’s best interests. At Three Wishes, we prioritize health, safety, and long-term wellness, and that includes being cautious about how and when vaccines are given.
https://catinfo.org/vaccines-for-cats-we-need-to-stop-overvaccinating/
https://animalwellnessmagazine.com/additives-adjuvants-animal-vaccines/
https://www.uniquelycats.com/blog/feline-vaccination-risks/
At Three Wishes, kittens receive one basic 3-way (FVRCP) vaccination between 10 to 12 weeks of age. Depending on how long the kitten stays with me and their age at the time of going home, they may also receive a rabies vaccination. No additional vaccinations are required or recommended for at least one full year.
Why Do Some Vets Recommend So Many Vaccines?It’s common to hear that kittens need three or even four rounds of vaccines, and unfortunately, many vets will ignore or dismiss the breeder’s vaccinations and recommend starting the series over again.
This standard approach is based on a "guessing game"—trying to catch the moment when maternal antibodies (from nursing) fade, and the kitten’s immune system can respond to a vaccine. However, if the vaccine is given too early, it may be ineffective, and repeated dosing follows in an attempt to “catch” the window.
By waiting until 10–12 weeks, after the kitten has stopped nursing and had time to develop independently, we significantly reduce the guesswork—and the need for multiple shots.
Why I Strongly Discourage Additional VaccinationsRagdolls are known to be vaccine-sensitive. Administering too many vaccines—or giving multiple shots too close together—can lead to serious adverse reactions, including:
- Lethargy or fever
- Vomiting or diarrhea
- Loss of appetite
- Chronic inflammation
- Vaccine site sarcomas (cancerous tumors)
- Kidney issues
- immune system suppression
It is for these reasons that I prohibit additional vaccinations outside of my recommended schedule. Administering additional vaccines before they are due will void your contract, and I cannot offer any refund, replacement, or health guarantee if the kitten becomes ill as a result.
What About FELV and FIV Vaccines?
I do not recommend FELV or FIV vaccines for Ragdolls—especially indoor-only cats. These vaccines are unnecessary in low-risk environments and carry a higher risk of reaction than benefit. However, if your cat is allowed outdoors or around another cat that has been, (not recommended) then you should administer the FELV/FIV vaccination.
You Have the Right to Say No.
While some veterinarians may strongly encourage more vaccinations—and even make you feel like a bad pet owner for declining--you are absolutely within your rights to make an informed decision for your pet. Many general practice vets have limited experience with Ragdolls and may not understand how sensitive they can be to over-vaccination.
Consider the Actual Risk. Before agreeing to any vaccination, ask yourself:
- Is my cat indoors-only?
- Is there any realistic risk of exposure to the diseases the vaccine protects against?
- How prevalent are those diseases in my area?
- Does the potential benefit outweigh the risk of reaction?
Final Thoughts:
Vaccines do not guarantee immunity, and they do carry risk—especially in a breed like the Ragdoll. I urge all kitten owners to carefully assess their cat’s lifestyle, exposure, and health status before agreeing to any vaccination protocol.
Always research and advocate for your cat’s best interests. At Three Wishes, we prioritize health, safety, and long-term wellness, and that includes being cautious about how and when vaccines are given.
https://catinfo.org/vaccines-for-cats-we-need-to-stop-overvaccinating/
https://animalwellnessmagazine.com/additives-adjuvants-animal-vaccines/
https://www.uniquelycats.com/blog/feline-vaccination-risks/
Q: Why do you no longer offer Esn (early spay and neuter)
A: For a time, Three Wishes kittens were sent home already spayed or neutered, a practice known as early spay/neuter (ESN). However, we have recently chosen to discontinue this policy.
Over time, we observed that kittens altered at a very young age tended to have weaker immune systems and were more prone to certain health issues. While early spay/neuter is a common practice among breeders - primarily to protect bloodlines and prevent their kittens from falling into the hands of backyard breeders. And while the risk of backyard breeders is real and concerning, we believe that the long-term health and well-being of our kittens must come first.
Many breeders feel pressured to adopt ESN policies, often due to other breeders who make them feel like they must. However, subjecting a kitten to major surgery before their immune system has fully developed introduces unnecessary risk.
The process of rehoming itself, combined with vaccinations and the stress of transitioning to a new environment, already places a significant load on a kitten's system. Adding a surgical procedure on top of that, in our view, is simply too much stress for their tiny, developing body.
We understand that opinions on this topic vary widely. However, we feel it’s important to be transparent: early spay/neuter often benefits the breeder more than the kitten or the new owner. Our priority will always be the health, safety, and long-term wellness of the kittens we raise.
Over time, we observed that kittens altered at a very young age tended to have weaker immune systems and were more prone to certain health issues. While early spay/neuter is a common practice among breeders - primarily to protect bloodlines and prevent their kittens from falling into the hands of backyard breeders. And while the risk of backyard breeders is real and concerning, we believe that the long-term health and well-being of our kittens must come first.
Many breeders feel pressured to adopt ESN policies, often due to other breeders who make them feel like they must. However, subjecting a kitten to major surgery before their immune system has fully developed introduces unnecessary risk.
The process of rehoming itself, combined with vaccinations and the stress of transitioning to a new environment, already places a significant load on a kitten's system. Adding a surgical procedure on top of that, in our view, is simply too much stress for their tiny, developing body.
We understand that opinions on this topic vary widely. However, we feel it’s important to be transparent: early spay/neuter often benefits the breeder more than the kitten or the new owner. Our priority will always be the health, safety, and long-term wellness of the kittens we raise.
Q: What do you recommend for water dishes?
A: Most Ragdolls don’t require any special food or water dishes to stay clean, but for any breed, ceramic or stainless steel dishes are always recommended for sanitary reasons. These materials are non-porous, easy to clean, and less likely to harbor bacteria or viruses compared to plastic.
That said, some Ragdolls have longer fur, particularly around the chest and neck, which can sometimes get wet or messy depending on the shape of their water bowl. If you notice your cat’s fur looking damp or unkempt after drinking, you may want to consider a specialized dish or water fountain.
When choosing a fountain, look for one that offers:
That said, some Ragdolls have longer fur, particularly around the chest and neck, which can sometimes get wet or messy depending on the shape of their water bowl. If you notice your cat’s fur looking damp or unkempt after drinking, you may want to consider a specialized dish or water fountain.
When choosing a fountain, look for one that offers:
- A shallow or narrow drinking area to prevent fur from getting soaked
- Non-porous materials (avoid plastic if possible)
- Easy disassembly for thorough cleaning
Q: is a ragdoll right for me?
Are Ragdolls the Right Fit for You?
Ragdolls are beautiful, majestic cats with affectionate personalities and endearing, often silly antics. They can bring a great deal of joy to the right home—but they’re not the right pet for everyone.
Some families may have very young children who, without meaning to, could injure a delicate kitten. Others might have high-prey-drive dogs that pose a real risk to a cat’s safety. Busy households where no one is home for long stretches may struggle to give a Ragdoll the attention and companionship it needs. And unfortunately, some people attempt to bring a cat into rental housing that doesn’t allow pets, putting both themselves and the animal in a difficult position.
Do Your Research—And Be Honest With YourselfIt’s truly disheartening to see people adopt or purchase a cat without being fully prepared. I’ve spoken with new owners who are shocked or frustrated when their kitten:
Please take the time to think through how you'll handle these behaviors before bringing a cat into your home. It’s not fair to the animal if it ends up being rehomed simply because the owners didn’t prepare or weren’t realistic about their lifestyle.
First-Time Cat Owner?
If you’ve never had a cat before, I highly recommend spending time with friends or family members who have indoor cats. Ask them about the pros and cons, and how they handle common challenges. This kind of firsthand insight can help you make a much more informed decision.
A Cat Is Not a Novelty - It’s a Lifelong Commitment. Ragdolls (and all cats) deserve forever homes, not temporary placements or impulsive decisions. Please don’t get a cat and expect it to behave like something it’s not. Do your research. Be honest about your situation. Make sure you’re ready.
When you prepare properly, you’ll be setting yourself - and your future cat - up for a lifetime of love, companionship, and mutual understanding.
Ragdolls are beautiful, majestic cats with affectionate personalities and endearing, often silly antics. They can bring a great deal of joy to the right home—but they’re not the right pet for everyone.
Some families may have very young children who, without meaning to, could injure a delicate kitten. Others might have high-prey-drive dogs that pose a real risk to a cat’s safety. Busy households where no one is home for long stretches may struggle to give a Ragdoll the attention and companionship it needs. And unfortunately, some people attempt to bring a cat into rental housing that doesn’t allow pets, putting both themselves and the animal in a difficult position.
Do Your Research—And Be Honest With YourselfIt’s truly disheartening to see people adopt or purchase a cat without being fully prepared. I’ve spoken with new owners who are shocked or frustrated when their kitten:
- Scratches the furniture
- Jumps on counters
- Plays too roughly
- Sheds fur all over the house
Please take the time to think through how you'll handle these behaviors before bringing a cat into your home. It’s not fair to the animal if it ends up being rehomed simply because the owners didn’t prepare or weren’t realistic about their lifestyle.
First-Time Cat Owner?
If you’ve never had a cat before, I highly recommend spending time with friends or family members who have indoor cats. Ask them about the pros and cons, and how they handle common challenges. This kind of firsthand insight can help you make a much more informed decision.
A Cat Is Not a Novelty - It’s a Lifelong Commitment. Ragdolls (and all cats) deserve forever homes, not temporary placements or impulsive decisions. Please don’t get a cat and expect it to behave like something it’s not. Do your research. Be honest about your situation. Make sure you’re ready.
When you prepare properly, you’ll be setting yourself - and your future cat - up for a lifetime of love, companionship, and mutual understanding.
Q: what do you use for flea prevention, how do you handle a flea infestation?
My Honest, Hard-Earned Advice on Flea ControlThis advice comes from personal experience. Years ago, I went through a severe flea infestation. I wasted time and money on bad advice, and my entire family—and pets—suffered as I struggled to regain control. What I learned through that ordeal has helped me prevent future infestations and assist others in doing the same.
If you follow the steps below, you can avoid a flea problem—or eliminate one if it’s already started.
Let me start with a critical piece of advice:
Do NOT use Dawn dish soap as a flea treatment.
Yes, Dawn will kill fleas on your pet during the bath. But it does nothing to stop the fleas living in your home—which is where most fleas live. Fleas jump on your cat or dog just to feed and then hop off again. So even after a Dawn bath, fleas from your environment will quickly re-infest your pet.
Worse still, using Dawn dish soap can ruin the effectiveness of your spot-on flea medication - even if you bathe your pet days before or after application. Dawn strips the natural oils from the skin and fur, which are essential for the medication to distribute properly through the oil glands.
Even though spot-on flea treatments claim to be "waterproof," they are not resistant to degreasing shampoos like Dawn. Using both methods together is one of the biggest mistakes people make when trying to manage fleas.
What I Recommend
For Active Flea InfestationsIf you're already dealing with an infestation:
After the Infestation is under control:
Special Note for Households with Dogs. If you have indoor/outdoor dogs, I highly recommend using a monthly oral flea medication, like NexGard.
Dogs pick up a significant number of fleas outside, and spot-on treatments often aren’t enough to kill them before they come inside and transfer to your floors - and eventually your cats. Oral flea pills are much more effective for dogs and can prevent them from becoming carriers that reinfest your home.
Even if your cats never leave the house, they can get fleas from untreated dogs in the same environment.
Final Thoughts - Not all flea treatments are created equal. Based on years of experience, here are my top picks:
If you follow the steps below, you can avoid a flea problem—or eliminate one if it’s already started.
Let me start with a critical piece of advice:
Do NOT use Dawn dish soap as a flea treatment.
Yes, Dawn will kill fleas on your pet during the bath. But it does nothing to stop the fleas living in your home—which is where most fleas live. Fleas jump on your cat or dog just to feed and then hop off again. So even after a Dawn bath, fleas from your environment will quickly re-infest your pet.
Worse still, using Dawn dish soap can ruin the effectiveness of your spot-on flea medication - even if you bathe your pet days before or after application. Dawn strips the natural oils from the skin and fur, which are essential for the medication to distribute properly through the oil glands.
Even though spot-on flea treatments claim to be "waterproof," they are not resistant to degreasing shampoos like Dawn. Using both methods together is one of the biggest mistakes people make when trying to manage fleas.
What I Recommend
- Use a vet-approved spot-on treatment: I personally use Revolution and occasionally rotate with Advantage Plus to prevent resistance.
- Avoid bathing your cat for at least 5 days before and after applying spot-on treatments. If you must bathe your cat, wait until the third week of the flea treatment cycle, when it’s almost time to reapply.
- During an active infestation, speak to your vet about reapplying the treatment every 2–3 weeks temporarily, instead of monthly.
For Active Flea InfestationsIf you're already dealing with an infestation:
- Use Capstar tablets alongside your spot-on treatment. Capstar begins killing fleas within 30 minutes and is safe to use daily for up to 3 days, and then weekly as needed.
- Capstar is not a long-term solution, but it's incredibly helpful in killing fleas currently on your pet while the spot-on treatment works to break the flea life cycle in your home.
After the Infestation is under control:
- Continue using your spot-on flea treatment monthly
- Apply it on time - missing doses gives fleas a chance to return
- Avoid unnecessary bathing with soaps that strip natural oils
Special Note for Households with Dogs. If you have indoor/outdoor dogs, I highly recommend using a monthly oral flea medication, like NexGard.
Dogs pick up a significant number of fleas outside, and spot-on treatments often aren’t enough to kill them before they come inside and transfer to your floors - and eventually your cats. Oral flea pills are much more effective for dogs and can prevent them from becoming carriers that reinfest your home.
Even if your cats never leave the house, they can get fleas from untreated dogs in the same environment.
Final Thoughts - Not all flea treatments are created equal. Based on years of experience, here are my top picks:
- Best overall for cats: Revolution (kills fleas, worms, and mites)
- Second choice: Advantage Plus or Frontline
- Avoid: Cheap store brands, flea collars, and harsh shampoos like Dawn
Q: does pkd and hcm testing GUARANTEE that kittens will be negative?
All of our adult Ragdolls are DNA tested for PKD (Polycystic Kidney Disease) and HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy)—two of the most serious hereditary conditions in cats. However, it’s important to understand that current DNA tests can only detect the most common known mutations. Unfortunately, less common or yet-undiscovered mutations may not be identified through these tests.
We provide proof of DNA testing for each kitten’s parents, and new owners are always welcome to pursue additional testing through their own veterinarian if they choose.
While our health guarantee covers certain conditions for a specific period (as outlined in our contract), beyond that time frame, we can only guarantee that both parents tested negative for the known mutations. That said, we deeply value our kitten families. If a cat purchased from us were to later be diagnosed with a form of PKD or HCM that could not be detected by available DNA tests, we would gladly offer a discount on a future kitten, as long as we are still operating our cattery.
For full details, please refer to the terms outlined in our contract.
We provide proof of DNA testing for each kitten’s parents, and new owners are always welcome to pursue additional testing through their own veterinarian if they choose.
While our health guarantee covers certain conditions for a specific period (as outlined in our contract), beyond that time frame, we can only guarantee that both parents tested negative for the known mutations. That said, we deeply value our kitten families. If a cat purchased from us were to later be diagnosed with a form of PKD or HCM that could not be detected by available DNA tests, we would gladly offer a discount on a future kitten, as long as we are still operating our cattery.
For full details, please refer to the terms outlined in our contract.
Q :Can you explain the difference between Ragdolls and CHerumbim?
Both Traditional and Cherubim Ragdolls were originally developed by Ann Baker in the 1960s. Cherubim Ragdolls were previously referred to as Ragdoll-New Traits, encompassing coat variations such as Mink, Sepia, and Solid. While these cats have always been eligible for registration with TICA, they were not permitted to compete for Championship status - until recently.
Traditional Ragdolls have long been recognized by major cat associations, including TICA and CFA. In 2024, however, Cherubim Ragdolls were officially recognized as a distinct division of the Ragdoll breed by both TICA and LCWW, allowing them to enter the show ring and compete alongside their traditional counterparts.
The only difference between the written breed standards for Traditional and Cherubim Ragdolls lies in body color and eye color:
Traditional Ragdolls have long been recognized by major cat associations, including TICA and CFA. In 2024, however, Cherubim Ragdolls were officially recognized as a distinct division of the Ragdoll breed by both TICA and LCWW, allowing them to enter the show ring and compete alongside their traditional counterparts.
The only difference between the written breed standards for Traditional and Cherubim Ragdolls lies in body color and eye color:
- Traditional Ragdolls are born all white and develop their color gradually. They always have blue eyes and come in standard colors such as seal, blue, red, tortie, chocolate, and lilac.
- Cherubim Ragdolls, on the other hand, are born with color. Their eyes can be aqua, blue, green, or gold, and their coats can be sepia, mink, or solid.
Q: Are Ragdolls a healthy breed?
There are many advantages to choosing a Ragdoll over other breeds, particularly those with intentionally bred structural deformities, such as Persians, Scottish Folds, or Highlanders. Ragdolls are known for their affectionate personalities, laid-back nature, and striking appearance. However, like all purebred cats, they can be prone to certain health concerns.
The most significant health challenge the Ragdoll breed faces is a predisposition to FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis). This is a rare mutation of the common feline coronavirus (not to be confused with COVID-19). It’s important to understand that FIP is not contagious; it develops from a virus that nearly all cats - regardless of breed - carry at some point in their lives. Most cats will never experience the mutation that causes FIP, but unfortunately, Ragdolls appear to have slightly higher rates of FIP mutation compared to the general cat population.
The good news is that FIP is now over 95% curable, and the cost of treatment continues to decline as awareness and access to medication improve.
While breeders cannot predict or entirely prevent FIP mutations, we take proactive steps to reduce risk. These include:
It’s also crucial to be aware of potential FIP symptoms, which can include:
Aside from this specific risk, Ragdolls are generally a healthy and hardy breed. Responsible breeders have made great strides in minimizing genetic diseases like HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy) and PKD (Polycystic Kidney Disease) through diligent health testing and careful pairing.
Like all cats, Ragdolls can be susceptible to everyday viruses or colds, but a clean environment, low stress levels, and a nutritious diet will go a long way in supporting your cat’s lifelong health.
The most significant health challenge the Ragdoll breed faces is a predisposition to FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis). This is a rare mutation of the common feline coronavirus (not to be confused with COVID-19). It’s important to understand that FIP is not contagious; it develops from a virus that nearly all cats - regardless of breed - carry at some point in their lives. Most cats will never experience the mutation that causes FIP, but unfortunately, Ragdolls appear to have slightly higher rates of FIP mutation compared to the general cat population.
The good news is that FIP is now over 95% curable, and the cost of treatment continues to decline as awareness and access to medication improve.
While breeders cannot predict or entirely prevent FIP mutations, we take proactive steps to reduce risk. These include:
- Maintaining a clean and low-stress environment
- Avoiding overcrowding
- Spaying/neutering any breeding cats who have produced more than 2 kittens affected with FIP or that are closely related to affected lines
- Reducing known environmental stressors and immune triggers
It’s also crucial to be aware of potential FIP symptoms, which can include:
- Persistent fever
- Lethargy or low energy
- Loss of appetite
- Pale or white gums
- Unsteady movement or stumbling
- UTI-like symptoms
Aside from this specific risk, Ragdolls are generally a healthy and hardy breed. Responsible breeders have made great strides in minimizing genetic diseases like HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy) and PKD (Polycystic Kidney Disease) through diligent health testing and careful pairing.
Like all cats, Ragdolls can be susceptible to everyday viruses or colds, but a clean environment, low stress levels, and a nutritious diet will go a long way in supporting your cat’s lifelong health.
Q: WHy did you decide to add Cherubim ragdolls To your cattery?
Cherubim Ragdolls are coming soon to Three Wishes Cattery.
The easy answer to this question is DIVERSITY! I personally have found Cherubim Ragdolls to be stronger and more robust, and from more diverse lineage. For me, adding Cherubim to my cattery was a smart move. Besides the health and diversity benefits, they are unique and beautiful!
The easy answer to this question is DIVERSITY! I personally have found Cherubim Ragdolls to be stronger and more robust, and from more diverse lineage. For me, adding Cherubim to my cattery was a smart move. Besides the health and diversity benefits, they are unique and beautiful!
Q: WHAT WILL RAGDOLL KITTENS LOOK LIKE WHEN THEY ARE GROWN?
I'm often asked what Ragdoll kittens will look like once they're fully grown. One of the most fascinating things about this breed is how much their appearance changes from kittenhood to adulthood - more so than many other breeds. Every Ragdoll kitten is like a little mystery, slowly revealing its final look over time.
As they mature, all shaded or colored areas on a kitten will darken, while the bright white areas will stay crisp and white. Eye color may soften slightly but typically remains a vivid blue.
When it comes to patterns:
As they mature, all shaded or colored areas on a kitten will darken, while the bright white areas will stay crisp and white. Eye color may soften slightly but typically remains a vivid blue.
When it comes to patterns:
- Bicolors usually have more white on their faces, including an inverted “V” marking on the forehead that defines their facial pattern.
- Mitted and Colorpoint (Pointed) Ragdolls have more overall color. Mitted are distinguished by white socks on their feet and a white belly stripe, while colorpoints do not have these white markings.
- Seal is darker than Blue and can range from deep brown to almost black.
- Blue varies from pale silver-gray to a deeper steel-gray.
- Red and Cream (seen in Flame and Cream Points) are the slowest colors to develop. These kittens may appear nearly white at first, but over time their points will deepen into shades of warm orange or peach.
- Torties are a mix of either Seal or Blue with Red or Cream, creating a marbled or patchwork appearance similar to calicos - each one beautifully unique.
Q: What is an OUTCROSS OR FOUNDATION CAT?
A foundation cat refers to a domestic cat that is introduced into an established breeding program. This process, known as outcrossing, is used to increase genetic diversity and establish new, healthy bloodlines within a breed.
Personally, I believe outcrossing is not only beneficial—it’s essential. When breeders stop incorporating outcrosses, the gene pool begins to shrink. Over time, this leads to fewer available bloodlines and a greater reliance on inbreeding or line breeding, both of which can compromise long-term health.
Outcrossing is not driven by profit. In fact, the first and second generations of kittens from a foundation cat are often heavily discounted, and there is little to no financial incentive. The true purpose of using a foundation cat is to improve the breed - strengthening the genetic health of future generations.
Unfortunately, it's well known that some unethical breeders - including many in the show world - continue to inbreed or line breed to produce award-winning cats. But in doing so, they further limit the gene pool. This narrowing of genetic diversity has led to a rise in serious health issues across certain lines: heart conditions, kidney disease, FIP, and weakened immune systems, to name a few.
This is why I choose to prioritize HEALTH and DIVERSITY above all else in my breeding program. I will occasionally incorporate foundation cats, and I fully support the practice of responsible outcrossing. Breeding for ribbons may bring prestige, but breeding for health ensures a stronger, more resilient future for the breed.
Any Three Wishes foundation/outcrossed cats or kittens that are first, second, or third generation will be discounted and noted as such. By the fourth or fifth generation, they will be back to normal pricing.
Personally, I believe outcrossing is not only beneficial—it’s essential. When breeders stop incorporating outcrosses, the gene pool begins to shrink. Over time, this leads to fewer available bloodlines and a greater reliance on inbreeding or line breeding, both of which can compromise long-term health.
Outcrossing is not driven by profit. In fact, the first and second generations of kittens from a foundation cat are often heavily discounted, and there is little to no financial incentive. The true purpose of using a foundation cat is to improve the breed - strengthening the genetic health of future generations.
Unfortunately, it's well known that some unethical breeders - including many in the show world - continue to inbreed or line breed to produce award-winning cats. But in doing so, they further limit the gene pool. This narrowing of genetic diversity has led to a rise in serious health issues across certain lines: heart conditions, kidney disease, FIP, and weakened immune systems, to name a few.
This is why I choose to prioritize HEALTH and DIVERSITY above all else in my breeding program. I will occasionally incorporate foundation cats, and I fully support the practice of responsible outcrossing. Breeding for ribbons may bring prestige, but breeding for health ensures a stronger, more resilient future for the breed.
Any Three Wishes foundation/outcrossed cats or kittens that are first, second, or third generation will be discounted and noted as such. By the fourth or fifth generation, they will be back to normal pricing.
Q: How do you feel about cat shows?
I've dipped my toes into the show world—entered a few shows, purchased cats from some of the more prominent show catteries—and to be honest, my impression hasn't been great.
What I discovered is that many show breeders are not as ethical as they present themselves to be. I’m not saying all of them are like this, but I’ve personally witnessed some troubling practices that seem to be far more common in the show world than elsewhere.
For example, I've seen breeders hang papers—essentially falsifying a cat’s pedigree by assigning incorrect registration documents. I've seen cats with a known history of producing sick kittens continue to be bred, with no plans to retire them. Inbreeding is also common, though it’s often rebranded as “line breeding.” Regardless of what you call it, inbreeding reduces genetic diversity—something that’s already limited in purebred lines—and can contribute to immune system weaknesses and a range of inherited health issues.
As for the shows themselves, they often felt less like a true merit-based competition and more like a popularity contest—and a very expensive one at that. I witnessed one case where a cat was allegedly drugged by a competitor. In another, someone's cats were outright stolen from a show. Judges, who are supposed to be impartial, have been known to receive gifts, lunches, and favors from breeders. And it's no secret to them exactly who puts which cats in which show cages. From what I’ve observed, it's not always the best cat that wins, but rather the breeder who attends the most shows and spends the most money.
That’s why I’ve decided I’ll never be a show breeder. I may still attend shows occasionally to stay familiar with the breed standard, but my breeding program has a very different focus.
I’m not here to produce the cat with the strongest chin structure, the best nose swoop, or the perfect sized ears. My priorities are: Health, Genetic Diversity, and Socialization. While I do keep aesthetics and structure in mind, they’re secondary to the well-being of my cats and the future of the breed.
What I discovered is that many show breeders are not as ethical as they present themselves to be. I’m not saying all of them are like this, but I’ve personally witnessed some troubling practices that seem to be far more common in the show world than elsewhere.
For example, I've seen breeders hang papers—essentially falsifying a cat’s pedigree by assigning incorrect registration documents. I've seen cats with a known history of producing sick kittens continue to be bred, with no plans to retire them. Inbreeding is also common, though it’s often rebranded as “line breeding.” Regardless of what you call it, inbreeding reduces genetic diversity—something that’s already limited in purebred lines—and can contribute to immune system weaknesses and a range of inherited health issues.
As for the shows themselves, they often felt less like a true merit-based competition and more like a popularity contest—and a very expensive one at that. I witnessed one case where a cat was allegedly drugged by a competitor. In another, someone's cats were outright stolen from a show. Judges, who are supposed to be impartial, have been known to receive gifts, lunches, and favors from breeders. And it's no secret to them exactly who puts which cats in which show cages. From what I’ve observed, it's not always the best cat that wins, but rather the breeder who attends the most shows and spends the most money.
That’s why I’ve decided I’ll never be a show breeder. I may still attend shows occasionally to stay familiar with the breed standard, but my breeding program has a very different focus.
I’m not here to produce the cat with the strongest chin structure, the best nose swoop, or the perfect sized ears. My priorities are: Health, Genetic Diversity, and Socialization. While I do keep aesthetics and structure in mind, they’re secondary to the well-being of my cats and the future of the breed.
Q: What advice do you have for new breeders?
Breeding cats is not something with a quick, one-page answer, but I’ll share some important starting points here.
1. Plan for your male (stud).
Males almost always spray and may fight if not housed separately. Their spray smells terrible, and fights can cause serious or fatal injuries. If you let your male roam freely, you won’t be able to control pregnancies—or even know when they happened.
Some breeders keep a stud in a single room, but that can be very isolating. A better option is a spacious catio set up inside a bedroom or another active area of your home. This way, the male can still see and interact with family life. Be prepared for frequent enzyme cleaning, because he will still spray. If this is something you feel you cannot handle, breeding may not be the right path for you.
2. Prepare kitten spaces.
Young kittens do best in enclosures, while older kittens thrive in a bedroom or large catio. Without this, queens will give birth in closets, cabinets, or other unsafe spots. Tiny kittens are also at risk of being stepped or sat on if they’re loose. Whatever you do, never house your cats in a basement, garage, attic, or outdoor building. Cats need to be included in family life.
3. Avoid inbreeding.
This includes so-called “line breeding,” which is just inbreeding under a different name. Inbreeding reduces genetic diversity and often leads to health problems—even if it takes a few generations to appear.
4. Breed only from healthy cats.
Do not keep unhealthy cats, or kittens from cats with a history of health problems. This is how bloodlines decline and pedigrees develop issues. Only keep healthy offspring from healthy parents with no history of genetic illness.
5. Be cautious with show breeders.
Not all show breeders are bad, but many continue using lines known to carry serious issues such as FIP, heart disease, and kidney problems. These health problems often have a strong genetic component. Unfortunately, some breeders overlook this to protect their financial investment or pedigreed titles. From experience, I recommend avoiding show lines unless you’ve thoroughly researched them.
6. Don’t keep too many of your own females.
It’s tempting to keep back multiple kittens from your own litters to avoid purchasing new cats, but this can quickly backfire. If a genetic issue arises, you could end up having to retire all of them at once. Think of it as “putting all your eggs in one basket.” Keep one or two of your own, but also plan to purchase cats from outside lines to maintain genetic diversity.
7. Always be honest.
Transparency with your clients and with other breeders is essential. Dishonesty will ruin your reputation faster than anything else.
8. Never send home a sick kitten.
If a health problem arises near the go-home date, be upfront with the client and delay pickup until the kitten has fully recovered.
9. Don’t falsify pedigrees.
“Hanging papers”—assigning false registration to hide inbreeding or inflate bloodlines—is deeply unethical and causes long-term problems. Never do this.
10. Order and study pedigrees.
Get the pedigree for every cat you own. You cannot make responsible breeding decisions—or avoid inbreeding—without understanding your cats’ bloodlines.
1. Plan for your male (stud).
Males almost always spray and may fight if not housed separately. Their spray smells terrible, and fights can cause serious or fatal injuries. If you let your male roam freely, you won’t be able to control pregnancies—or even know when they happened.
Some breeders keep a stud in a single room, but that can be very isolating. A better option is a spacious catio set up inside a bedroom or another active area of your home. This way, the male can still see and interact with family life. Be prepared for frequent enzyme cleaning, because he will still spray. If this is something you feel you cannot handle, breeding may not be the right path for you.
2. Prepare kitten spaces.
Young kittens do best in enclosures, while older kittens thrive in a bedroom or large catio. Without this, queens will give birth in closets, cabinets, or other unsafe spots. Tiny kittens are also at risk of being stepped or sat on if they’re loose. Whatever you do, never house your cats in a basement, garage, attic, or outdoor building. Cats need to be included in family life.
3. Avoid inbreeding.
This includes so-called “line breeding,” which is just inbreeding under a different name. Inbreeding reduces genetic diversity and often leads to health problems—even if it takes a few generations to appear.
4. Breed only from healthy cats.
Do not keep unhealthy cats, or kittens from cats with a history of health problems. This is how bloodlines decline and pedigrees develop issues. Only keep healthy offspring from healthy parents with no history of genetic illness.
5. Be cautious with show breeders.
Not all show breeders are bad, but many continue using lines known to carry serious issues such as FIP, heart disease, and kidney problems. These health problems often have a strong genetic component. Unfortunately, some breeders overlook this to protect their financial investment or pedigreed titles. From experience, I recommend avoiding show lines unless you’ve thoroughly researched them.
6. Don’t keep too many of your own females.
It’s tempting to keep back multiple kittens from your own litters to avoid purchasing new cats, but this can quickly backfire. If a genetic issue arises, you could end up having to retire all of them at once. Think of it as “putting all your eggs in one basket.” Keep one or two of your own, but also plan to purchase cats from outside lines to maintain genetic diversity.
7. Always be honest.
Transparency with your clients and with other breeders is essential. Dishonesty will ruin your reputation faster than anything else.
8. Never send home a sick kitten.
If a health problem arises near the go-home date, be upfront with the client and delay pickup until the kitten has fully recovered.
9. Don’t falsify pedigrees.
“Hanging papers”—assigning false registration to hide inbreeding or inflate bloodlines—is deeply unethical and causes long-term problems. Never do this.
10. Order and study pedigrees.
Get the pedigree for every cat you own. You cannot make responsible breeding decisions—or avoid inbreeding—without understanding your cats’ bloodlines.
Q: What should I do if my cat gets diarrhea?
Kittens and cats can develop diarrhea for many different reasons. Stress from rehoming, dietary changes, bacteria, viruses, digestive conditions, or a naturally sensitive stomach are some of the most common culprits.
The first step is always a fecal exam by your veterinarian. Every kitten leaving us has already had a negative fecal exam, but sometimes one veterinarian may detect something another might miss.
If the fecal exam is negative, your vet may still recommend trying treatments such as metronidazole, probiotics, or Pet Pectillin. If those do not resolve the issue, consider dietary adjustments:
The first step is always a fecal exam by your veterinarian. Every kitten leaving us has already had a negative fecal exam, but sometimes one veterinarian may detect something another might miss.
If the fecal exam is negative, your vet may still recommend trying treatments such as metronidazole, probiotics, or Pet Pectillin. If those do not resolve the issue, consider dietary adjustments:
- Try removing wet food for a short period, or switch to pate wet food, and empty the gravy before serving it. Some gravies contain wheat gluten, corn starch, or soy flour—ingredients that certain cats may be sensitive or intolerant to. Give this change a few days to see if there’s improvement before moving on to another option.
- If diarrhea persists, the next step is transitioning to a sensitive stomach diet. Ragdolls, in particular, can be prone to digestive sensitivities. I recommend Hill's Science Diet Kitten Sensitive Stomach & Skin Salmon & Brown Rice Recipe Dry Cat Food. If tolerated, the same brand also offers a sensitive stomach wet food, which can be offered once daily.
Q: What kind of cat carriers do you recommend?
We recommend using hard plastic cat carriers. While they may not be as stylish as soft-sided carriers, they are far more durable and practical. One major advantage is that hard carriers can be thoroughly cleaned and reused, whereas soft carriers often need to be discarded once they become soiled.
When choosing a carrier, look for one with a wide-opening door to make it easier to place your cat inside and take them out. It should also be spacious enough for your cat to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Avoid carriers made entirely of clear plastic. Being fully visible can feel overwhelming and stressful for cats. Instead, a more enclosed, darker carrier will help your cat feel safer and more secure during travel.
When choosing a carrier, look for one with a wide-opening door to make it easier to place your cat inside and take them out. It should also be spacious enough for your cat to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Avoid carriers made entirely of clear plastic. Being fully visible can feel overwhelming and stressful for cats. Instead, a more enclosed, darker carrier will help your cat feel safer and more secure during travel.
